Archive for May, 2007
Anheuser-Busch Redbridge Beer
As you’ll know from yesterday’s post, we at SevenPack have charged ourselves with trying to find any available gluten-free beers to review, as a friend of SevenPack was recently diagnosed with Celiac disease and will be charged with drinking these for the rest of her days! For Jamie’s sake, I hope there are some good ones. Fortunately, the first of the batch, New Grist from Lakefront Brewery, was actually quite good. And, to be honest, this is the only other offering I’ve been able to find at the local beer store thus far. So, if any of you readers know of other options available in the US, let us know! Or, if any of you suppliers out there want to send us a sample of your latest gluten-free option, we’ll be happy to review it and tell the folks where we got it from – just e-mail me at ben(at)sevenpack.net.
Forgive me for being a bit wary of this one. After all, it is from Anheuser-Busch, and we tend to shy away from most A-B offerings here at SevenPack. However, I do believe that folks can change, and beggars can’t be choosers when it comes to gluten-free beers. So, I’m going into this with an open mind. The pour of this is significantly darker than the New Grist. It is a dark amber, almost brown. Again the head of this isn’t dense at all, and looks almost soda-like with big, burly bubbles. The aroma here is pretty bland – you can catch a light sweetness peeking through an aroma that is otherwise much like cardboard. In the mouth, the first sensation is a brown sugar sweetness on the tip of the tongue that then moves to a bigger, more cloying sweetness around the middle of the tongue that floats into the aftertaste. This sweetness is obviously from the sorghum that comprises most of this beers fermentable sugars. It’s a syrupy dark sweetness that blends with a papery malt flavor (yes, I meant ‘paper’ not ‘pepper’) that I suppose is trying to emulate the actual malt in a grain-based beer. Overall, I think this beer tastes much more artificial than the New Grist. It has a greater level of sweetness, and the sweetness tastes like it’s trying to mask what is, underneath it all, a worse beer. However, it is a nicer looking beer in the glass, and it does more closely emulate an amber ale. So, if you’re drinking for appearance sake or you just really like darker beers, this might be the one to go with. However, if you’re looking for what is overall a better beer, I’d recommend the New Grist.
Lakefront Brewery “New Grist” Beer
Recently, a friend of SevenPack was diagnosed with Celiac disease. This, for those of you who don’t know, is a disease that renders the person unable to ingest anything with wheat gluten. If this doesn’t sound rough to you, then you don’t realize that wheat gluten is in almost everything that hits your plate. Okay, I’m not being totally fair, Celiacs can eat any meat or veggie. However, it happens that almost all breads, sauces, marinades, pastas, cereals, desserts, and (sadly) beer contain wheat gluten. This makes it very difficult to eat out, and it quickly makes the Celiac an expert on cooking at home and knowing ingredients of various foods. Again, worst of all, it means that it’s difficult for the Celiac to drink, as the very nature of beer means that it contains wheat gluten. Fortunately, Celiac disease is beginning to gain a higher profile in the US and abroad (especially in the UK, where there is a higher percentage of Celiacs). Thus, we are beginning to see more restaurants offering gluten-free menus, more packaged foods at least acknowledging whether they are or are not gluten-free, and (best of all) more brewers brewing gluten-free versions of beer. I know a fair bit about Celiac disease, as it actually runs in my family. Fortunately, however, I have tested negative for the disease – if it had been otherwise, then this blog would contain about 3 entries instead of almost 500. Nevertheless, due to the situation that our friend, Jamie, now finds herself, we deem it necessary to delve into the world of gluten-free beer so that, if nothing else, we’ll know what she’s drinkin’.
The New Grist pours a light and clear orange-yellow color. There isn’t any head to speak of, and the carbonation is much less dense than most beers. Rather, the bubbles are large and almost soda-like. I’d wager that this is a result of the modified carbonation process as this must either be naturally carbonated via the yeast’s reaction with sorghum and rice (instead of traditional grains) or artificially carbonated via direct CO2 injection. The aroma of this isn’t terribly pungent or terribly definable. It’s quite generic with a light sweetness, almost reminiscent of a ginger ale, only with a subdued sugary note. In the mouth, this initially tastes quite smooth and doesn’t have any major bite. Across the tongue, some light sweetness develops that then blends into a slightly herbal note that reminds me slightly of a cold green tea. There is also a slight CO2 flavor that I’m picking up, which makes me believe that this probably is artificially carbonated. All in all, it’s not bad. It’s easy-drinking and quite refreshing and would probably make a good session beer, depending on the ABV, which isn’t listed. I’ve had much worse beer than this, and I would definitely choose this over any of the major domestic brews. It’s obviously a bit neutered when compared to more adventurous normal brews, but it does taste smooth and refreshing and well-balanced – much better than I expected, to be honest.
Eel River “Triple Exultation” Old Ale
Again, a brewer I’m not terribly familiar with. The name rings bells, but I’ve certainly never had this ‘old ale’, and I’m anxious to try it out. Furthermore, I’ve noticed a lot more ‘old ales’ on the shelves these days, which is an exciting proposition to me, as I tend to enjoy this dark and often complex brand of beer.
This particular brew pours a very dark amber-brown color with an aroma that is a blend of toffee and licorice. In the mouth, this beer begins very chocolatey-sweet, but quickly moves into a toffee flavor around the middle of the tongue. Give it a second, and the anise flavor begins to kick in around the back, and it’s a mix of the anise and the toffee that round out the beer. Throughout the abovementioned flavors, you’ll also catch a smoky tint and a touch of a bready flavor. Altogether, I’d say this is pretty good. It’s a thick mouthfeel and a full flavor that has various rewarding flavors through the mouth. I’m looking forward to getting a better grasp on this style but, if this is any indication, I like where we’re going with this.
Two Brothers Bare Tree Barleywine-style Weiss Beer
It’s new! Well, at least new to me. I’ve never heard a thing about Two Brothers Brewing Company, and I’d be interested to hear anything about them from you folks in the crowd. For me, the first time I ever saw the name was during a perusal of the beer section at Liquor Land in the South End of Boston. While the name isn’t flattering, Liquor Land has a fairly respectable selection, and I couldn’t resist picking up this adventurous style from a brewery I am unfamiliar with. It was apparently brewed in 2006, and has been sitting in my fridge for a few weeks. Tonight, I uncorked ‘er.
The pour of this beer is a medium ruby color with mild debris. The aroma is quite pleasant – heavy with banana and caramel, it smells almost desert-like – similar to a banana split with warm caramel drizzled over it. In the mouth, this is an explosion of flavors. Initially, I sense an apricot sweetness on the front of the tongue. This then blends into the melange of banana and caramel by the middle of the mouth. On through the mouth, we get hints of pepper and spice, along with some licorice hints that carry this on to the back of the mouth. In the aftertaste, I get a slight tinge that is mildly unpleasant, but not enough to ruin the beer. The flavor is mildly oak-like, but doesn’t seem entirely balanced, and I honestly think this flavor would mellow out with age to make this an absolutely fabulous brew. Even with the odd finish, I would consider this beer a wild success. The only other experience I’ve had with a weiss/barleywine hybrid is in Smuttynose’s Wheat Wine, which I wasn’t entirely impressed with. However, the guys at Two Brothers have done a fabulous job here, and I bet this beer will mellow out to be a real knockout within a year or two. Well done, and I’m looking forward to any opportunity to try something else from Two Brothers.
Smuttynose Really Old Brown Dog Ale
We don’t see too many Smuttynose beers in these here parts. This is unfortunate, because I like almost everything about the presentation and quality of these brews. They have great bottle art, a swell looking dog named Olive for a mascot, and the beer in the bottle is almost always top-notch. On top of that, these Big Beer series brews from Smuttynose step it up another notch. I’ve dealt with a couple of these big bottles – I was especially impressed with the IPA – so, I’m pretty excited about this old brown ale.
The pour of this is a rich dark brown color, but quite transparent, with a dense rocky caramel head. The aroma isn’t especially pungent, but carries hints of nut along with a light, odd sweetness that reminds me of jellybeans. It’s neither a great nor a bad aroma, but certainly acceptable. The flavor of this is also a bit more subdued than I expected, but quite good – don’t get me wrong, this would be pretty big for a normal brown ale, but not quite as much as I expected from the ‘big beer’ series. The flavor is heavy with nut. There is also some bittersweet candy flavors that remind me of horehound drops. It does seem to carry a bit more of an alcohol kick than a standard brown, and overall I find it to be quite tasty. This also has a silky mouthfeel – thick and substantial, but not syrupy. All things considered, I find this to be a relatively subdued beer for a ‘big beer’, but it also tastes refined and rich. This is really a very good beer and might be a nice stepping stone to bigger beers for those getting into craft brews.
Mendocino Summer Ale
Now, I know that Mendocino has been around for a while, and you’d think they’d have it right by now, but I’m honestly not too impressed by this Summer Ale. Granted it IS a summer ale from quite a while back – hardly a fresh brew. But, frankly it’s just not refreshing or even that tasty. The color is a hazy golden, and the aroma is reminiscent of wet cardboard with one lemon thrown against it. In the mouth, the beer has too full of a feel for a summer beer, and it tastes vaguely like a child’s cough drop, but without the medicinal bite. The only redeeming quality is the artificial lemony flavor that lingers in the background. So, frankly, I don’t like it.
Victory “Hop Wallop” Ale
This beer reminds me of the mountains of NC, because the first time I had it was in front of my friend Will’s house, playing Bocce in his yard with dogs running aboot – lovely mountains in the background and a crisp bite in the air. And, of course, I was almost definitely dominating the competition. I’d have a hard time comparing this side-by-side with Victory’s other hoppy offering, the Hop Devil, due to the fact that I don’t have a Hop Devil to sit beside this right now. So, I’m just gonna have to give this one an independent review.
This guy pours a relatively hazy yellow color and smells like fistfuls of fresh hops – all fresh and bitter. In the mouth, this is a very straightforward hoppy ale. It’s full of fresh and floral hop flavor, with a delightful biting bitterness that rides the tongue and leaves a bitter aftertaste. Beyond that, there isn’t much to say. This is just a very fresh-tasting hoppy ale, almost surely made with fresh leaf hops, and lots of ‘em. I really like this.
Green Flash Trippel
Okay, dudes, it’s another tripel. I don’t really have any witticisms about Green Flash, as it’s a relatively new brewery to me. However, I can tell you that I really dug their IIPa, and I’m pretty excited about all their other beers, including a barleywine ale that I believe I have sitting in the fridge.
This one pours a relatively clear dark golden color. The aroma here is fairly muted for a tripel, with a light sweetness that is exceptionally rich, almost caramel-like. In the mouth, this is a tad more typical of a tripel. It displays the candi sugar flavor you expect with just a hint of citrus. However, this richness rears its head again, and again almost caramel-like. It adds a layer that I don’t really expect of a tripel. it’s almost as if these guys traded in the extra citrus bite and tangy sweetness for a darker and richer sweetness. It’s actually a rather good beer, and it has a great mouthfeel, but it is a bit different than most tripels I typically drink, and I drink a lot of tripels. I won’t say that I’d choose this over other offerings on the shelf (like the Anderson Valley Brother David’s Tripel), but I will say that it’s good. If you find the bite of typical tripels a bit to tangy or cloying, then this might be a nice compromise for you. It’s kinda like a ‘dark’ tripel, if you can imagine…
Harpoon 100-Barrel Series Saison
If you’ve ever visited the Harpoon brewery in Boston, then you’re probably familiar with the long line of bottles in their tasting room that starts from their original 100-Barrel Series ale and traces all the way to their most recent – 13 years I believe is the current count. If I could somehow convince Harpoon to give me all 13 years worth, I think I’d feel finer than frog hair split four ways, ’cause those would be interesting to drink. Also, in case you don’t know, the 100-Barrel Series ales are 1-time brews that Harpoon allows one of their brewers to do each year. The brewer gets to choose whatever they want to buy, and I believe Harpoon even sends the brewer overseas to research what they want to make. It’s a pretty cool concept, and a nice reward for years of service to Harpoon. I’ve had a couple of these, and I was surprise to find 3 years worth at a beer store in NYC. Unfortunately, I also found a bunch of other stuff I wanted at that same beer store, and I only had so much bag space. So, I just got this one – the Saison.
This beer pours a slightly hazy golden color with lots of carbonation. The aroma of this is sour and citrusy – it is quite biting in the nose, and has just a hint of salt. It’s almost like a fresh salted lemon rind – delicious! In the mouth, this is a pretty straightforward Saison, and it’s very good. There is a sour burn at the front of the mouth. As the beer progresses down the tongue, the bite fades into a duller sourness with a decent malt backbone and a hint of citrus. At the back of the tongue, nearly everything fades except for the lemony flavor and some sourness, almost like the last little piece of one of those lemon sour candies we used to eat. This flavor lingers into the aftertaste and eventually diminishes. Overall, I think this is a really good beer, and one I wish Harpoon would make more regularly. I do think there are better Saisons, and I still sing the praises of Bison’s version. However, this bottle was only $4 for a big bottle of limited edition Saison in a 2 year old vintage. At that price, this is a complete steal. I think we need a high production American Saison to whip the American public into shape. So, c’mon Harpoon, let’s knock it down to $3/bottle and go into mass production!
Dogfish Head Burton Baton
Okay, dudes – I just checked after my last review (in which I referenced the Burton Baton), and I realize that we haven’t yet even reviewed the Burton Baton. So, I’m going to give us a quick review to end this injustice.
The Burton pours a dark amber ale, and quite clear. The aroma is hoppy, but also very sweet, with tints of maple syrup. In the mouth, this thing is very sweet, very tangy, and very hoppy. Keep in mind that this bad boy is a big IPA aged in oak, and you can get the idea of what we’re working with. The initial taste on the tongue is mostly sweetness – it seems a bit cloying on the tongue initially, but it quickly transitions into a larger taste explosion that carries some hop and a blast of maple. This transition gives the beer a much bigger footprint and carries it through the mouth. The beer ends its journey by leaving a mapley sweetness throughout the mouth and a sweetbread malt flavor at the back of the throat. This is interesting to me because, while it has a fair hop presence, it seems that there is always a balancing sweetness throughout the mouth that pulls the hop into check, which makes this into a suprisingly balanced beer that is also very big. It’s an adventurous brew, and probably not for the common beer drinker, but very interesting for the curious folks out there. I imagine this would be an interesting pairing for a bitter cheese, oddly enough.
Dogfish Head Fort
So, I’m not sure if you guys will be able to get this beer or not. I managed to snag it from a beer store up in NYC, and I tossed in the ol’ checked baggage to enjoy from the comfort of the sofa. I assumed that this was a new release that I just hadn’t seen in NC yet, but I got it just in case. And, I have subsequently looked in beer stores near and far, and I haven’t seen this anywhere except for the beer store in NYC and the Dogfish Head brewpub in Rehoboth Beach. So, it’s quite possible that this was a limited release that you won’t find. If that’s the case, then I apologize for rubbing it in your faces because, if you’re reading this blog, you probably like Dogfish Head and would enjoy this. I know I sure have been looking forward to it.
This pours a very pretty rose color that is quite cloudy. The aroma is very indicative of the ton (seriously, 1 metric ton) of raspberry puree that apparently went into the brewing of this (not just this bottle, I assume – the whole batch). In addition, there is a hint of the alcohol content noticeable in the aroma, which is unusual for a what might be initially considered a “wussy” fruit beer. And, by the way, if you thought this would be a “wussy” beer, then you are sadly mistaken. The first taste of this made me do a double-take, hold the glass in front of my face, grimace, and then spout a few expletives. This isn’t because it’s a bad beer. Rather, it’s because this fruit beer just has so many more balls than I’ve ever detected in a fruit beer – at least 3 balls, which is easily 1 more than I have. On the tip of the tongue, all you get is a blast of raspberry sweetness which is very good. At this point, you think you’re in for a light tasty brew. But, then, the beer goes to the middle of the tongue and slaps you in the face with some serious gusto. The flavor actually isn’t too far off from the underlying flavor of the Burton Baton from Dogfish Head which is, by all accounts, also very ballsy. It’s sort of an alcohol burn with a rich, full oaky flavor, which makes me wonder if this was aged in oak. There isn’t any indication of that on the bottle, but it just has a flavor to me that is reminiscent of other oak-aged beers. So, you have this melange of raspberry, alcohol, and oak that makes for an extremely rich and complex beer with a thick, almost syrupy, mouthfeel. There is also some hop profile to this, but it is chained by the raspberry to make for what is a very strong, but a very well-balanced beer. I regret that there is not mention of alcohol content on the bottle, because after a half bottle of this, I’m guessing that it’s pretty high. In a nutshell, you need to try this; especially if you’re a fan of fruit beers or big beers or both, because this fits into all three categories. My only regret is that I didn’t buy two of these, ’cause I’d be interested to see what will happen once this has a couple of years of aging under its belt.
Terrapin Rye^2 Imperial Rye Pale Ale
So, Terrapin makes a Rye IPA. They also make a standard IIPA. And now, for your viewing enjoyment, they also make a Rye IIPA. And this is it. I’m drinking it. Right now.
This one pours more like an amber than an IPA. It’s a very clear dark reddish color. The aroma is actually quite malty and doesn’t display a lot of hop. However, there is certainly a ‘tanginess’ to the aroma that indicates the rye presence. In the mouth, the malt again rears its head and nearly demolishes whatever hop is here. Don’t get me wrong, the rye presence in the grain for this beer gives the malt a very rich and tangy flavor that is unlike anything you’ll be accustomed to tasting in a malty beer – that alone makes this worth a try. However, I’m hesitant to grant this the IIPA status, as the hops are hardly evident in the room with this much malt. You can taste the hops, just a little bit. However, when I pick up a IIPA, I expect to get smacked in the face with the hops, which isn’t happening here. So, my bottom line is that A) This is a good beer. If you like malty beers, and if you like the kick that rye can give a beer, then you’re going to love this, and B) This really isn’t a IIPA. They may have tossed some handfuls of hops in here, but I frankly can’t tell and, in my opinion, you can use all the hops in the world in a beer, but if you don’t let the consumer taste them, then I’m not calling it an IIPA. So, in closing, this is a fabulous Terrapin Rye Bomb IPA – and that’s what I’m going to call it.
[Ed. Note - Okay, I'm the dumb arse. I went back to check the bottle after my review, as I couldn't believe Terrapin would call this a IIPA and, sure enough, they don't. It's actually an Imperial Pale Ale. And, that's exactly what this is. Pale ales are maltier and richer and don't display the heavy hop presence of an IPA. So, Terrapin has aptly named this, and I stand corrected. That being said, and I still thing "Rye Bomb" would be a good name for a beer.]
Bison “Winter Warmer” Dubbel
Bison, in my opinion, is a tough brewery to peg. To be perfectly honest, I’m not a big fan of most of their 6-packs. However, the last couple of big-bottle brews I’ve had from them have rocked my socks off, and I think their Saison Ale might be the best American version I’ve ever tasted – certainly top 3 globally. So, going into this Winter Warmer, I’m pretty excited since it’s a big bottle, but I always gotsta be a little wary. Fortunately, it turns out to be a mighty tasty brew, even in the summer heat.
The beer pours a very dark reddish brown with an aroma very much like any other dubbel, with hints of chocolate and a bit of anise. In addition, this brew carries a fairly strong fruity aroma, reminiscent of figs or raisins. In the mouth, this is about like the aroma suggests. There is a decent chocolate tone to it, although more of a sweet chocolate than bitter. In addition, there is the fruit flavor, although it isn’t nearly as powerful as I expected from the aroma, and this is a good thing. Rather, you can taste hints of raisin that are quite subtle and complement the chocolatey flavor well. It’s almost like a light Raisinette flavor, if you’re familiar with those. If you’re not, they’re chocolate covered raisins, and they’re delightful. The aftertaste here is rather sweet, with a diminishing chocolate flavor as time passes. Overall, I’d say this is a good dubbel with a subdued flavor. It is fairly complex and well-layered, and it dances lightly on the tongue. I would certainly be happy to drink this again, and I think it would be a great alternative to a more ballsy Belgian dubbel when you want something a bit softer-spoken.
Bornem Abbey Tripel
Let’s chalk up another tripel for the books! If I was stranded on a desert island, I think the only beverage I would need would be tripels, because obviously IPAs aren’t refreshing enough for those sunny days, and who really needs water? So, tonight, on the desert island that is my couch, I decided to pop open this new tripel that recently appeared on NC shelves.
This tripel actually pours a little light for a tripel, which is a bit refreshing, as I’ve had enough of these that they all start to look the same. The aroma is quite pleasant, with the requisite candi sugar blending with a slight honeysuckle smell. In the mouth, this is fairly standard for a tripel, but not totally. You get a slight carbonation burn early in the mouth which then moves to a sugary sweetness. However, in my opinion, the sweetness here is slightly different than I’m accustomed to – it’s still obviously from the candi sugar, but it tastes a bit more ‘flowery’, for lack of a better word – perhaps this is the same place where that honeysuckle aroma comes from – it gives it a freshness that doesn’t bespeak the usual maturation time for a tripel. There is also a touch of tartness in the aftertaste of this beer that isn’t necessarily typical, and it gives it a welcome punch towards the back of the mouth. Actually, I’m quite impressed with this beer, and I’m surprised by the subtle differences that I’m noticing when compared to other tripels. This is brewed by Van Steenberge, so it’s not a new brewery by any means. However, this beer tastes like somebody’s been experimenting a bit (but not getting too crazy), and I like the little touches. Salut to Van Steenberge – I’m liable to buy this again!
Sam Adams Triple Bock 1994
Well, folks, this was obviously the highlight of Matt and my trip up North – after unsuccessfully attempting to order this beer off of vintage lists at other bars, we wound up finding the 1994 SA Triple Bock at Sunset Grill in Boston for TEN BUCKS! Seriously, folks – $10/bottle. So, if you’re within striking distance of Boston, I suggest you go now, ’cause there ain’t many left. To me, this has been a bit of a jabberwocky. I tried the Utopias, and it was so crazy that I’ve been dying to try it’s predecessor. However, you just really can’t find the stuff. So, when it was made available to us on the last night of our trip, it was as though God himself shined down and told me I was his most special creation.
The pour of this stuff is both dark and viscous as motor oil. The real beauty of this is how it rolls in the snifter, though. Hold this bad boy up to the light and swirl it around – it’s darkness diminishes around the meniscus and it sticks to the side of the glass with a color similar to a good balsamic vinegar. This characteristic is mostly due to the age of the beer (Keep in mind, this stuff is 13 years old). The aroma is more akin to a port or sherry than a beer – There is a lot of raisin and fig, and you can definitely smell the alcohol (18% abv). However, it is all very rich and appealing – if you’re not careful, you’ll find yourself sitting there with your nose stuck in the snifter glass looking like an idiot for minutes at a time. However, once you do pull your nose outta there, you’ll be in for a treat. This beer enters the mouth with a bang – it’s an explosion of flavor and alcoholic gusto. This begins at the tip of the tongue with a rich raisiny sweetness and instantly fills the mouth with flavor. On through the mouth, this develops more refined dark fruit flavors like fig and dark cherry. Also, there is a subtly accelerating alcohol presence that develops throughout the mouth. At the back of the throat, a slight coffee aftertaste creeps in while the essence of this beer sticks all over the tongue and mouth in it’s sticky, thick goodness. And, oh yeah, I didn’t mention that this beer is totally uncarbonated – this only lends to the illusion that this beer is as much a fine port as a Sam Adams creation. Overall, I’d say this beer is a phenomenal experience, and one you should seek out. It isn’t quite as explosive as the Utopias, or quite as complex. However, I would wager to say that it is a bit richer and a bit better developed. Of course, this has also aged for 9 years more than the Utopias I had the pleasure of drinking, so it’s had plenty of time to mature. Regardless, phenomenal beer – drink it.
